Wednesday, 12 August 2015

Salta & Jujuy

After a deluxe overnight 'cama' bus  (hot meals, leather seats, wine & whiskey) from Asuncion we arrived in Salta. Salta is the Argentinian hub of the north of the country, it surrounds a beautiful plaza with a lot of European architecture, museums & churches.

We arrived early in the morning so as it was too early to check into our B&B we sat at a café on the plaza, soaking up the sun and enjoying a good coffee and some medialunas (croissants). What a pleasant start to the day. After this we climbed up San Bernardo hill to view Salta from above. It was quite a hike in the hot sun.

Looking over Salta.
The overnight bus and heat taking its toll.

What we really wanted to do was hire a car so we could drive north of Salta to the Jujuy region and take our time checking out the scenery. We had tried to book online but, as everyone has the same idea, all rental cars were booked. We tried our luck at the Hertz office when we arrived but were again told all cars were booked out. As we started walking back to the B&B a guy approached us asking if we wanted to hire a car. We were a bit unsure how legit it was but anyway followed him inside to his 'tourism' company. The company seemed to be semi-legitimate so we booked a car for the following day. We were promised a sedan type car but instead a miniature panel-van type car turned up the next morning. We were ready to go so just signed the contract and went on our way. It turns out that this type of car is a very popular rental car.

Our car.
 
Some scenery on the way.

Paul was driver and I was navigator. We headed north, and higher up in altitude, and were amazed by the change in scenery. Huge colourful mountains, rocky rivers and millions of cacti. We spent our first night in Purmamarca, a small, touristy, adobe town settled below the "Hills of Seven Colours". A picture tells a thousands words, so see below for yourself how amazing it was. A walk along the ridge line opposite the town gave a great view of the mountains and a dizzying view of the town below.

The Hills of Seven Colours with Purmamarca below.


The ridgeline above Purmamarca.
 
The ridgeline above Purmamarca.

Enjoying a Fernet and cola at our B&B

The next day we drove further north and stopping to wander through the adobe (and, again, touristy) towns of Tilcara and Humahuaca. Markets selling local goods and foods surround the plazas. We filled up on empanadas and other various meat-filled breads - yum. We decided to drive a bit further north to see if we could hit the town of Iruya. In order to get here we had to drive 50-plus kilometres on unpaved roads over a pass of 4000m. The car did well however after 45mins of driving and only just making it to the pass we decided to check out the view from the pass and then head back and spend the night in Humahuaca.

At the pass 4000m up.

At the pass 4000m up.

Proof.

We spent the next day again exploring the surrounding areas and spent the night just north of the city of Jujuy (pronounced hoo-hooey).

Paul and cactus.

We had one more day and night in Salta before we headed back across to Chile. We went to the Museo de Arqueología de Alta Montaña which documents the discovery of three mummified children found at 6700m on the Llullailaco volcano. The climate kept the bodies and a collection of textiles and sacred objects found alongside them almost perfectly preserved. The showing of the children is a very controversial topic as many believe they should be laid to rest. Instead the museum rotates the three children, displaying one at a time. It was bone chilling to see a perfectly preserved mummified child locked behind glass. The museum also explained some of the culture of the high-altitude indigenous populations. Young females were sacrificed in the hope of good fortune for the population. In fact it was seen as a honour to be chosen. They were fed alcohol and when they fell asleep they were buried alive. This was likely the fate of some of the mummies found. Very interesting and also very sad.

Off to San Pedro de Atacama we head!














 

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