The trip to San Pedro de Atacama through the Paso de Jama was really spectacular, winding our way up to over 4800 m above sea level.
Still on the Argentinian side of the border, the climb is drastic before the road passes through the Salinas Grandes (salt lakes). We didn't feel a compelling need to stop here as we would be travelling to the Uyuni salt lakes soon, however the view from the bus window was awesome.
Me opposite the border crossing to Chile:
The landscape on the Chilean side was even more spectacular, and we probably enjoyed the views even more than the crossing between Santiago and Mendoza. Here are a few snaps taken while cruising:
We arrived in San Pedro late afternoon and had enough time to sample some empanadas and check out the town, which is heavily dominated by the tourism industry.
We hired bikes and went out to the Valle de la Luna (Valley of the Moon). Not sure where the name comes from. We spent an awesome day out here exploring caves, climbing sand dunes and cycling through the moonscape. It has to be one of the most other-worldly places that we have visited so far. We couldn't put the camera down. If it wasn't for the dial-up spec internet then there would be thousands here:
We also had to taste the salt. Note that the white in the pictures is not snow. Delicious. Mas sal, mas vida, they say.
The next day we managed to each find separate activities which piqued our interests. Cat went to yoga classes (in Spanish and at altitude), and I climbed up the 5600 m high active volcano, Lascar. I hadn't really packed clothes for climbing to that altitude, so I borrowed some of Cat's clothes, and managed to score some extra pants, gloves and climbing boots from the guide company.
When I booked the climb I'd been told that there were two other French tourists going with me, but as it turned out there was one tourist and one guide, both French. As we drove towards Lascar from San Pedro, I felt a little unsure as the guide had only been up once before, and he managed to drive us for 20 minutes up the wrong side of the mountain before realising that we were going the wrong way. Anyway, it all turned out to be okay as Pierro was a really nice guy and managed to get us there in tact, despite a few very near misses speeding along the track. Maybe practising for the Dakar Rally.
We stopped at the laguna at the base of Lascar for breakfast, eating only a little to prevent altitude sickness. Lascar is the farthest away mountain in the distance, above my head. If you look really closely there are sulphur clouds rising from the crater (click the pictures to expand).
A couple of shots of the view as we climbed.
We made really good time, stopping briefly every five minutes or so to catch our breath, and overtook another party about two thirds of the way up. The feeling when we reached the top was 100% badass.
The money shots at the crater (hat-tip Cat for the slick scarf).
When the other climbing party reached the crater we paid credit to Pachamama (roughly analogous to mother earth), with some coca leaves and red wine. The wine went down surprisingly well.
On the descent we all got headaches, which I'm told is almost unavoidable, but otherwise felt fine. The best cure for this was obviously a few cervezas when back in San Pedro. So after I had showered Cat and I met up with the other two, Pierro and Valentin, for a few beers followed by a good chicken and chips dinner. Vale la pena.
Not too late of a night, though, as we had booked a three day 4WD trip through to the Salar de Uyuni leaving the next day.
Still on the Argentinian side of the border, the climb is drastic before the road passes through the Salinas Grandes (salt lakes). We didn't feel a compelling need to stop here as we would be travelling to the Uyuni salt lakes soon, however the view from the bus window was awesome.
Me opposite the border crossing to Chile:
The landscape on the Chilean side was even more spectacular, and we probably enjoyed the views even more than the crossing between Santiago and Mendoza. Here are a few snaps taken while cruising:
We arrived in San Pedro late afternoon and had enough time to sample some empanadas and check out the town, which is heavily dominated by the tourism industry.
We hired bikes and went out to the Valle de la Luna (Valley of the Moon). Not sure where the name comes from. We spent an awesome day out here exploring caves, climbing sand dunes and cycling through the moonscape. It has to be one of the most other-worldly places that we have visited so far. We couldn't put the camera down. If it wasn't for the dial-up spec internet then there would be thousands here:
We also had to taste the salt. Note that the white in the pictures is not snow. Delicious. Mas sal, mas vida, they say.
The next day we managed to each find separate activities which piqued our interests. Cat went to yoga classes (in Spanish and at altitude), and I climbed up the 5600 m high active volcano, Lascar. I hadn't really packed clothes for climbing to that altitude, so I borrowed some of Cat's clothes, and managed to score some extra pants, gloves and climbing boots from the guide company.
When I booked the climb I'd been told that there were two other French tourists going with me, but as it turned out there was one tourist and one guide, both French. As we drove towards Lascar from San Pedro, I felt a little unsure as the guide had only been up once before, and he managed to drive us for 20 minutes up the wrong side of the mountain before realising that we were going the wrong way. Anyway, it all turned out to be okay as Pierro was a really nice guy and managed to get us there in tact, despite a few very near misses speeding along the track. Maybe practising for the Dakar Rally.
We stopped at the laguna at the base of Lascar for breakfast, eating only a little to prevent altitude sickness. Lascar is the farthest away mountain in the distance, above my head. If you look really closely there are sulphur clouds rising from the crater (click the pictures to expand).
A couple of shots of the view as we climbed.
We made really good time, stopping briefly every five minutes or so to catch our breath, and overtook another party about two thirds of the way up. The feeling when we reached the top was 100% badass.
The money shots at the crater (hat-tip Cat for the slick scarf).
When the other climbing party reached the crater we paid credit to Pachamama (roughly analogous to mother earth), with some coca leaves and red wine. The wine went down surprisingly well.
On the descent we all got headaches, which I'm told is almost unavoidable, but otherwise felt fine. The best cure for this was obviously a few cervezas when back in San Pedro. So after I had showered Cat and I met up with the other two, Pierro and Valentin, for a few beers followed by a good chicken and chips dinner. Vale la pena.
Not too late of a night, though, as we had booked a three day 4WD trip through to the Salar de Uyuni leaving the next day.
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