Sunday, 27 September 2015

Baños

Baños, located roughly in the centre of Ecuador, is the adventure capital of the country. Baños is also Spanish for bathroom/toilet, so you can imagine it is the butt of all jokes.

The trip through from Guayaquil was pretty scenic: lush plains, cloud encapsulated rain forest, and stunning views across Ambato when we got above the clouds. Unfortunately our photos are rubbish.

The town of Baños is, appropriately, located in a bowl. The surrounding hills are covered in forest and it is pretty lush:


Nice plazas in the town centre:


We wandered up the hill for a half hour or so to get a good view over the city:


Being such a warm, wet climate, with fertile volcanic landscapes, there was a huge variety of insects and butterflies. Four months of travelling, though, and our photo skills still haven't improved enough to catch a moving butterfly. I managed to slow this insect down enough to catch a photo:


And this one was not in great health:


The view over Baños:


We have wanted to go parapenting for ages, and Baños was the perfect spot for it. Rain in the morning didn't bode well, but the weather cleared mid-afternoon just as we were due to head up the hill. The instructor looked Cat up and down and gave her the biggest jumpsuit they had:


After spending a while laughing at Cat, we kicked back on the grass and waited for a while for the perfect conditions. The wind was reasonably strong so they sent the heaviest people up first, hoping for the wind to die down. I was heavy enough so got to head off.

My legs were longer than the instructor's, so I had to do all of the power running for lift-off:


And away:


Unfortunately the wind picked up a bit more and we had to wait another hour or so while for the wind to die down a little before the little lighties (Cat and Co.) could take off. The view over the surrounding volcanoes made it all good, but the wind was freezing cold:


When the wind finally became steady enough, the sun was starting to go down which meant a pretty spectacular time of evening for Cat to head up. She trusted her grip more than I did and took a camera up with her:


Just kickin' back:


From the ground:


Silhouettes of the windsock and trees:


Parapenting was not as scary as I had expected, but such an awesome feeling. The only noise up in the sky is the wind passing through the sail. Even the sound of the breeze drops away and you're just floating in silence which is totally wicked.

Another day we hired bikes and took off down the road past a trail of waterfalls and canopying (zip-lining) locations. The weather was pretty shit and it was pissing down for half of the ride, but the temperature was all right so we still had a ball.

We went 'superman' canopying here, which was a bit spooky as the operators here seem pretty relaxed about everything. Anyway we let them send us down head first over the waterfalls which was awesome. We didn't take a camera over the other side of the valley, but the volcanic rock formations were impressively black.


Not us, but the same idea (although this is a kid strapped to her mum's feet):


Bikes on bridge:


We could have gone puenting (like bungy jumping but without any stretch in the rope - the swinging action breaks your fall) but I figured it might wreck my shoulder again so we left it for today.

We continued on downhill until we had to ditch the bikes and took a walk to see one of the more impressive waterfalls in the area:


We had to pay $1.50 each to walk across this bridge to nowhere, but the view was pretty OK:


Just as we were ready to return, the weather cleared up. Tired legs and an uphill bike ahead of us, we jumped in the back of a truck with our bikes and got a lift back to Baños:


Happy with our adventuring here, we're spending today drinking coffee, smoothies and beer, and writing this. Tonight we'll catch a couple of buses, a taxi and a motor canoe and make our way into the far north east of the country to the Amazon.

Guayaquil

Now overnight buses are never fun, but the bus from Mancora through the border to Guayaquil was something else. We thought we were being smart by choosing the latest bus in order to arrive at a reasonable time in the morning, however, this meant that we had to get out of the bus at the Peru-Ecuador border at around 1am to go through immigration. Unfortunately, the Peruvian side appeared to be having some computer troubles and it took everyone about 3 hours to make it through the process. We'd finally all got back on the bus at 4am, settled in with eye masks and all, before anti-narcotics team decided they should get us all back off  to search through the bus. The bus passed and we finally made it back on to make our way to Guayaquil.

Not a great start to our Ecuadorian explorations, which was further dampened by Paul coming down with some sort of bug (too much ceviche?) and me feeling like a zombie with lack of sleep. Luckily we could check into our room straight away and we spent the day lying on the bed in front of the fan. Guayaquil is HOT! 

Day two we'd recovered and headed off to explore the city. Guayaquil has an amazing park, a lot like the cat park in Lima, but instead of cats there were iguanas! Within this small park in the city, there are over a hundred iguanas that just chill out and put up with the poking and prodding from curious locals, kids and tourists. It was pretty amazing being able to get so close to these prehistoric animals. They felt very strange to touch! The park was also filled with an amazing number of turtles.

We learnt a good lesson in Guayaquil - do not venture out between 2pm and 4pm, AKA siesta time. We walked across the city to explore the suburb of Santa Ana, a beautiful barrio filled with colourful houses and tropical plants. However, it was extremely hot and everything was closed so we could find no shelter from the heat in the area. So we jumped in a taxi and found some shelter in a KFC back in the centre.

Once it had cooled down we slowly headed back to the hostel through the city. We did some people watching in the main plaza, watched some people get arrested (along with about 200 other local rubberneckers), and experienced the streets coming alive with street-side BBQs and other vendors.

We made it through another hot night with no external windows and only a fan and headed off to the bus terminal the next day to move on to Baños.

Paul patting a friendly iguana.

A local getting his hand in the way of our perfect shot.

Iguanas everywhere.

Turtles upon turtles upon turtles. Those aren't rocks!

An iguana putting up with me having a feel.

Hello.

The river that runs past the city.

Looking out over the river.

Barrio Santa Ana.

Barrio Santa Ana.

Steps are much to hard to climb in the heat...

Looking over the river.

Máncora

Máncora, a sunny beach town in Northern Peru, was a place to relax, drink beer & pisco sours, watch the rugby and swim. Oh and eat lots and lots of ceviche. That's all there really is to report. 

Highlights include:
  • The moto-taxis. Rather than cars there are motorbikes fitted with two back wheels and a plastic covered carriage which take people around the town. Some of the younger guys had pimped out their mototaxis with huge speakers that blasted house music while getting from A to B.
  • The dead bloated sea lion getting its eyeballs eaten out by vultures on the beach. What a sight.
  • After we discovered the WiFi was a bit poor at our hostel, we found another hostel across the road with some friendly NZ and Aussie bartenders which played all the RWC games. Needless to say, we spent a bit if our time and money hanging out over that side of the road.
  • Ceviche.
  • 5 soles beers.
  • Swimming in the pacific ocean.
  • Watching NZ beat Argentina while lying on a sun lounger.


Me watching NZ v Argentina beach-styles.

Paul watching NZ v Argentina beach-styles.

The beach.

Ready for a swim!

The other side of the beach...

The beautiful local hairless Peruvian dogs.

A giant meal of ceviche.

The resident tortoise at our hostel trying to escape. He had a stump so I can only assume he'd been rescued.

Pool and beers.

The pool at our hostel.

Friday, 25 September 2015

Lima

The bus from Ica seemed to go on forever, with the most common view being this:


Lima was a helluva change from the places we have been the past couple of months. Even arriving in the dark we were straight away surrounded by skyscrapers and modern cars and taxis.

My shoulder was still sub-par so Cat acted as my hero, carrying both large backpacks around the district of Miraflores in search of a place to stay, while I dragged the chain carrying only two day packs. Cat found a reasonable value place with an owner who looked a lot like Uncle Fester and was partially blind, but very friendly.

In the morning we stumbled across a cafe on our street, with New Zealand based owners and a couple of NZ posters up. It was definitely a bit of a treat being able to get really well made coffee including long blacks and flat whites. We ended up hitting the same cafe every morning for breakfast.

We ventured down to the waterfront to visit the Pacific Ocean for the first time in over three months. The place was also overwhelmingly green in comparison to the Altiplano. Here is my excitement over what we could see:


We wandered along the clifftop parks checking out the sculptures and surf breaks along the way. With my shoulder the way it was surfing was not an option, but there were plenty of surfers out so we sat and watched them for a while. Also noticeable was the low cloud blanketing the city, which sticks around for close to half of the year.


For a fee comparable in steepness to the cliffs you can paraglide over the beach. The weather wasn't great for it and we figured we would go parapenting in Ecuador or Colombia instead.


There were some really interesting sculptures in the waterfront parks:


Some PDA:


More sculptures:


The cloud cover made for a pretty pleasant climate for wandering. We shared an icecream which was fairly delicious:


There is a park in Miraflores which is absolutely jam packed with cats. The cats seem to be really well looked after and are apparently fed and de-flead regularly. I'm pretty sure Cat was in heaven here and we spent a long time chilling out with the cats. They had a particular liking for Cat and around eight of them piled on top of her. It was pretty incredible, and even the locals were stopping and having a stare:


Given the heaviness of our packs, we negotiated the Peruvian postal system and sent away a multiple kilogram package of winter clothes (we won't be needing these as we head north) to James and Jess in New York to lighten the load.

With much lighter backpacks (I could carry my own again) we headed off, having really enjoyed our short time in Lima.